What Will Your Electrical Panel Replacement/Install Cost?

Electrical Panel Installation & Replacement Costs in the Bay Area

Upgrading or installing a residential electrical panel in the San Francisco Bay Area is a significant project that must meet California’s stringent safety codes. Homeowners often have questions about how much panel upgrades cost, what factors influence the price, and what regulations (like Title 24 and PG&E requirements) apply. This guide provides clear cost ranges, explains key cost factors, and answers frequently asked questions about electrical panel upgrades in the Bay Area, with a focus on California-specific rules and best practices.

Typical Price Ranges for Common Electrical Panel Projects

The exact cost of an electrical panel installation or replacement can vary widely based on the project scope. Below is a static price range table for common panel upgrade scenarios in Bay Area homes:

Notes: Upgrading to 400A service or installing a new 200A service panel can vary widely in cost. If extensive trenching or utility work is needed (common for underground service feeds), costs can exceed the high end of these ranges. Conversely, straightforward replacements (e.g. same-location panel swaps) tend to fall on the lower end of the range.

These ranges are typical for the Bay Area in 2024-2025, but your actual quote will depend on your home’s conditions. For example, Pacific Gas & Electric (PG&E) has noted that a standard panel upgrade (e.g. 100A to 200A) usually costs between $2,000 and $6,000 in their California service areapge.com. Local Bay Area contractors similarly report most 200A upgrade jobs falling around $2,500–$4,000 for a typical home. Higher-capacity upgrades (400A services for large homes) or complex installations can run much higher due to added equipment and labor. In one real-world San Francisco example, an electrician estimated about $5,500 for a basic 200A overhead upgrade, but around $18,500 for a 200A underground service upgrade that required trenching and sidewalk work– a reflection of the significant extra costs when dealing with underground lines and PG&E coordination.

Factors Affecting Electrical Panel Upgrade Costs

Several key factors will influence where your project falls in the above cost ranges. Understanding these cost factors will help you budget and make informed decisions:

Panel Amperage (Service Capacity)

The amperage (A) of the panel – essentially the size or capacity of your electrical service – is one of the biggest cost drivers. Upgrading to a larger capacity panel typically costs more in both materials and coordination than installing a similar-sized replacement. For instance, moving from a 100-amp to a 200-amp panel is a common upgrade as modern homes often require 200A service. Upgrading further to 400 amps (usually by installing dual 200A panels or a 320A continuous rated system) is much less common but may be needed for very large homes or those with extensive electrical loads (multiple EVs, heavy machinery, etc.). Higher-capacity panels themselves are more expensive, and they often entail larger service cables, heavier-duty breakers, and possibly a new meter and service drop from the utility. For example, nationally the cost to upgrade to 400A service averages around $8,000–$12,000 (versus a few thousand for a 200A upgrade) and in California it can be higher. In the Bay Area, upgrading to a 400A panel could easily run into five figures if it requires extensive utility work, as noted above. In short, bigger panels = higher costs.

Complexity of Wiring & Panel Location

The complexity of the installation is another major factor. If your new panel can be placed in the same location as the old one with minimal changes, the job is simpler. However, if you plan to relocate the panel (for example, moving an indoor panel to an exterior location for code reasons), additional wiring and conduit work will be needed, raising costs. Extending or replacing the feeder wires from your meter to the panel, or rerouting many branch circuits, adds labor. Homes with old wiring might also need updates to cable connectors or junctions when the panel is replaced, to ensure everything is safe and up to code. As one Bay Area electrician notes, it’s “a lot more work to replace a panel recessed into a finished wall… than [to replace] one mounted on the surface”. If walls must be opened up to access cables or if the panel is in a tight space, labor hours go up. In summary, straightforward swaps are cheaper; major reconfiguration or extensive rewiring drives the price higher.

Trenching or Service Line Upgrades

If your project involves changes to the electrical service line coming from the utility, expect higher costs. Many older Bay Area homes have overhead service drops. Upgrading an overhead service (the wire from the pole to your home) is usually simpler and cheaper than upgrading an underground service line. If you need to convert from overhead to underground, or if you already have underground service that needs changes, there can be significant costs for trenching, conduit, and possibly sidewalk or street work. Trenching through soil, cutting concrete, and then restoring those areas is labor-intensive and may require city permits for excavation. One local contractor reported that because of PG&E’s requirements and the complexity of underground work, their firm quote for a 200A underground upgrade was over $18,000 (versus about $5,500 for an overhead upgrade). Even without such extreme cases, running new conduit or larger gauge wire over a long distance (for example, a long driveway or from a detached meter to the house) will increase costs. Always have your electrician evaluate if service relocation or new trenching is needed; if so, the project scope (and budget) will expand significantly.

Utility (PG&E) Coordination and Requirements

n Northern California, any change to your main electrical service requires coordination with PG&E (Pacific Gas & Electric). This coordination can introduce both time and cost factors:

Planning and approval: PG&E typically requires you (or your electrician) to submit an application for a service upgrade or panel change. PG&E’s Building & Renovation Services process outlines that you should secure the city permit first, then apply through their online portal (“Your Projects”) for the service change. A PG&E representative will review the load increase and ensure the local grid can support it.
Scheduling power shutoff: For a panel replacement, PG&E will schedule a temporary disconnect of power on the day of installation and come back to reconnect once the new panel is in place and inspected. This must be timed carefully. In busy Bay Area regions, lead times for scheduling the utility crew can be a few weeks.
Potential utility upgrade costs: If your upgrade requires PG&E to install a larger meter, replace the service drop, or even upgrade the neighborhood transformer (in rare cases for big 400A upgrades or multiple EVs), there might be additional costs. PG&E sometimes covers basic service upgrades, but extensive modifications could trigger a cost share. For example, customers have reported being quoted several thousand dollars by PG&E for certain service alterations in unique cases. However, typically for a standard 200A upgrade, PG&E’s work (new meter, drop) is included as part of your regular service (you mainly pay your electrician for the panel work).
Delays and paperwork: It’s worth noting that dealing with the utility can add bureaucracy. In California, PG&E has been known to have backlogs, especially for underground service changes. While your electrician handles most coordination, be prepared for the possibility of some waiting period for PG&E approvals or crew scheduling, particularly if upgrades to utility equipment (like a transformer) are needed.

Overall, PG&E’s involvement ensures the upgraded service meets technical requirements, but it’s an external factor that can influence both timing and sometimes cost. The key is to start the process early: obtain your city permit first, then submit the PG&E service change application as required. PG&E will assign a representative to your project to guide technical specs and schedule the work.

Solar-Ready and Title 24 Requirements

California’s building codes (notably Title 24, Part 6) emphasize solar readiness and energy efficiency, which can affect your panel upgrade choices. Since 2020, Title 24 has mandated solar photovoltaic (PV) systems on virtually all new homes in California. In practice, this means new construction homes must have solar panels or at least be built “solar-ready.” For homeowners upgrading an existing panel (not building a new home), you won’t be forced to add solar panels, but there are still solar-ready considerations:

200A Minimum for New Panels: The energy code’s solar-ready provisions require that the main electrical service panel in new residential construction has a minimum busbar rating of 200 amps, with a reserved space in the panel for a solar breaker. In other words, California wants homes prepared to handle solar power. If you’re replacing an old 100A panel, it often makes sense to upgrade to 200A to meet modern standards and facilitate future solar or other loads.
Reserved breaker space: Title 24 also requires new panels to have a dedicated space labeled “For Future Solar Electric”, to allow easy installation of a solar feed-in breaker later. Many modern panels sold in California come with this accommodation (for example, a 200A panel with a 225A bus can support a solar backfeed per NEC 120% rule). Your electrician will likely choose a panel model that meets this requirement if you mention you might go solar later.
Solar-ready upgrades: Even if not explicitly required for a like-for-like panel replacement, it’s wise for Bay Area homeowners to think ahead. Installing a panel that is solar-ready (e.g. having adequate capacity and breaker space) can save money down the road. It’s a minimal cost difference now to choose a panel with provisions for solar, and it ensures compliance with California’s forward-looking energy policies.

In summary, California regulations favor larger capacity panels (200A+) and solar accommodations. Upgrading your panel is a good opportunity to make your home compliant with Title 24 and “future-proof” for solar PV or battery storage additions later on.

Smart Panel Options

Beyond standard electrical panels, homeowners today have the option of smart electrical panels. These are advanced panels (often with built-in monitoring, circuit-level control, and Wi-Fi connectivity) that can optimize energy usage and integrate with home automation, solar, and battery systems. In the Bay Area – where solar and electric vehicles are popular – some homeowners consider smart panels to manage their increased loads efficiently.

What is a smart panel? It functions like a normal breaker panel but includes intelligent features and software. For example, the SPAN Panel is a leading smart panel that lets you monitor energy use on each circuit through an app and even switch circuits on/off remotely or automatically (useful during power outages with a home battery). Some smart panels can prioritize essential loads if you’re on battery backup, or schedule EV charging when solar production is high, etc.

Cost of smart panels: The convenience and tech features do come at a premium. A traditional 200A panel might cost on the order of $200–$500 for the equipment, whereas a SPAN smart panel costs about $3,500 just for the hardware. Installation labor is similar (it still involves an electrician replacing the panel), but integration and setup might add slight labor time. Overall, homeowners should expect a smart panel upgrade to cost a few thousand dollars more than a standard panel upgrade. For instance, one source notes that a SPAN panel costs about $3,500 (vs. ~$300 for a conventional panel) before installation. Another industry source estimates total installation costs for a smart panel at around $3,000–$5,000 (including the device and labor) depending on site specifics.

Are they worth it? That depends on your goals. If you plan to install solar + battery storage or have frequent outages and want fine-grained control over circuits, a smart panel can be very useful. They can also help in managing home energy to potentially lower bills (for example, by shedding non-critical loads during peak pricing periods). However, if your needs are simple, a smart panel isn’t necessary – a standard up-to-date panel will provide safe electricity but without the bells and whistles. Many Bay Area homeowners prioritize the panel capacity and safety first (making sure it’s sufficient for EVs, solar, etc.), and consider smart panels as an optional enhancement if the budget allows.

Labor and Permit Costs in the Bay Area

The Bay Area is known for higher labor costs, and electrical work is no exception. Licensed electricians (especially those with California C-10 licenses) command premium rates due to the high cost of living and the demand for skilled trades. Labor typically makes up a substantial portion of the panel upgrade cost. A straightforward panel swap might take an electrician and a helper the better part of a day (plus a return visit for final inspection hookup), and more complex upgrades can take multiple days. At local labor rates, this can be a few thousand dollars in labor alone.

When comparing quotes, keep in mind:

Hourly vs flat-rate: Some electricians charge a flat rate for panel upgrades that bundles labor and materials. Others might break it down. Ensure the quote accounts for everything (service disconnect/reconnect, inspections, etc.).
Prevailing wages: In some cases (for example, if this were part of a larger renovation with public funding or just a high-end contractor), prevailing wage or union labor rates could apply, which are higher. Most residential jobs will be standard rates, but Bay Area averages are still on the higher end nationally.

Additionally, factor in the permitting costs. Every panel replacement requires a building/electrical permit from your city or county in California. Permit fees for a panel upgrade can range from around $100 to $300+ depending on the jurisdiction and whether other work (like electrical rewiring) is included. The permit cost itself isn’t huge in the scope of the whole project, but it’s a necessary step. The permit process ensures an inspector will sign off that the work meets code – which is critical for safety and also for utility reconnection.

California law is very clear that electrical work must be permitted and performed by qualified individuals. According to San Diego County (as an example), an electrical permit is required for any electrical work including panel upgrades, and the permit can only be issued to a state-licensed electrical contractor or the homeowner (if acting as an owner-builder). So, DIY panel upgrades are not allowed unless you are the homeowner doing your own work (and even then, only if you truly know what you’re doing – most homeowners hire a professional for something this complex). Budget a few hundred dollars for permit and inspection fees as part of your overall cost.

California Code Compliance and Safety Upgrades

Whenever an electrical panel is installed or replaced in California, it must be brought up to current electrical code standards. This means your electrician will include certain safety upgrades as part of the project:

Surge Protection: The 2020 National Electrical Code (adopted into California’s 2022 Electrical Code) now mandates a surge protective device for dwelling unit services when a panel is replaced or upgraded. In practice, this means your new main panel will likely have a whole-home surge protector installed (often a device mounted next to the panel or integrated into it). This protects your appliances and electronics from voltage spikes.
GFCI/AFCI Breakers: Modern code requires ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection in many areas (outdoors, bathrooms, kitchens, garages, etc.) and arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) protection in bedrooms and living areas. When you upgrade a panel, any new breakers installed will need to be the latest code-compliant type. For example, if your old panel had standard breakers, the electrician will likely install combination AFCI breakers for circuits feeding bedrooms/hallways, and GFCI or dual-function breakers for circuits that need them. These advanced breakers cost more (sometimes $50+ each vs $5-10 for old simple breakers), which adds some cost. The trade-off is greatly enhanced fire and shock protection, as AFCI breakers can detect wiring hazards and shut off before a fire starts.
Grounding and Bonding: Many older homes in the Bay Area have outdated grounding (or none at all). When replacing the panel, the electrician must ensure the grounding system meets code – typically installing grounding electrode rods, bonding the water/gas pipes, and ensuring the neutral is properly bonded in the service disconnect. This is crucial for safety and may add some hardware/labor if not already present.
Meter socket and service equipment: If your existing meter socket or service mast is no longer up to code or not rated for the new amperage, it will need replacement as part of the upgrade. For instance, going from 100A to 200A often means a new meter socket. In some cases, the service mast (the pipe that carries wires to an overhead connection) might need an upgrade to a larger diameter to fit new wires, or strengthened support if required by code.
AIC Rating compliance: California cities (like Oakland and others) often require documentation of the Available Fault Current from PG&E for service changes, to ensure the new panel’s breakers have adequate AIC (Ampere Interrupting Capacity) rating to safely interrupt a short-circuit current. Your electrician might request an “AIC letter” from PG&E which states the fault current at your location. This just ensures the equipment installed can handle worst-case electrical faults. For homeowners, the main thing is to use a UL-listed panel and breakers as specified – your contractor will handle the calculations.

Lastly, it’s worth mentioning old unsafe panels: If your home has a very old panel brand such as Federal Pacific (FPE Stab-Lok) or Zinsco, these are known to be fire hazards with breakers that often fail to. Many insurance companies in California now require replacement of those panels for coverage. Upgrading to a modern panel not only increases capacity but also eliminates those safety risks. Even if you aren’t adding new loads, replacing an obsolete panel can greatly improve your home’s electrical safety.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Below are answers to some common questions Bay Area homeowners have about electrical panel upgrades and replacements:

When should a homeowner consider an electrical panel upgrade?

You should consider upgrading your electrical panel if you encounter signs that your current panel is undersized or unsafe. Here are some tell-tale signs and situations:

Insufficient amperage: If your home has a 100A or smaller service (common in older homes) and you plan to install modern high-demand appliances – such as an EV charger, electric range, central AC, or solar panels with battery backup – a 200A upgrade is often needed to handle the load. Homes today typically “operate best with a 200-amp panel,” since newer appliances and electronics can easily overload a 100A service.
Frequent breaker trips or flickering lights: This can indicate the panel is overloaded or circuits are at capacity. If resetting breakers becomes routine, it’s a sign the system is strained.
Physical signs of deterioration: If the panel is rusted, very old, makes crackling sounds, or you smell burning near it, it’s definitely time for an inspection and likely a replacement.
Outdated fuse box or unsafe model: Fuse-based panels (from pre-1960s) or notorious brands like FPE and Zinsco should be upgraded for safety, even if they seem to be working. These older panels were “fine for the time they were built” but modern usage can push them beyond safe limits. Zinsco panels, for example, have a known defect that can cause the breakers to melt and fail to shut off power.
Home renovation or addition: If you are adding square footage or remodeling (new kitchen, ADU, etc.), the building codes will likely require you to have adequate service for the new loads. An addition with a new HVAC system or a second electric oven, for instance, may necessitate a panel upgrade. Many local building departments will ask for a load calculation during the permit process – if the calc shows the existing service is insufficient, an upgrade will be mandated.

In summary, age and capacity are the two big reasons. Either the panel is old and unsafe, or it’s just too small for a modern electrified home. If you’re unsure, have a licensed electrician evaluate your panel. In many cases, homeowners upgrade to 200A “to have room to grow” – allowing future installation of EV chargers, solar, air conditioning, or simply to eliminate worries about tripping breakers.

Do I need a permit to replace or upgrade my electrical panel in California?

Yes. In California, an electrical panel upgrade requires a permit and inspection in every jurisdiction. Electrical work is closely regulated for safety. According to state and local regulations, “An Electrical Permit is required for all electrical work, including Electric Vehicle charging systems (EVCS)”, and permits can only be issued to a licensed electrical contractor or the homeowner (if acting as an owner-builder). This means you either hire a contractor who will pull the permit on your behalf, or if you are doing the work yourself (not recommended for a panel change unless you are qualified), you must obtain the permit personally and likely demonstrate knowledge of the codes.

During the permit process, you may need to provide a simple electrical diagram or load calculation to the building department, especially if you’re increasing service amperage. However, many Bay Area cities streamline panel replacement permits – for example, some allow online or over-the-counter permits for a “panel change-out.” The cost of the permit will vary by city; expect anywhere from ~$100 to a few hundred dollars. Inspection is also mandatory: after the panel is replaced, a city or county inspector will come to verify that the installation meets the electrical code. This typically happens before PG&E reconnects power or installs the new meter. Once the inspector gives a green tag or approval, PG&E can energize the new service.

Skipping the permit is risky and illegal – unpermitted electrical work can lead to insurance refusal, resale issues, and most importantly serious safety hazards if done incorrectly. Always ensure a permit is obtained and the work is inspected. Reputable electricians will handle this for you and include the permit fee in their quote. Remember, California’s building codes and Title 24 standards apply, so the inspector will check things like proper grounding, GFCI/AFCI protection, smoke/CO alarms in the house (yes, often when pulling an electrical permit, you’ll be asked to verify your home has up-to-date smoke and carbon monoxide detectors as required by residential code), and other safety items as part of final approval.

How is the process of upgrading a panel coordinated with PG&E?

Coordinating with PG&E is a critical part of any service panel upgrade in the Bay Area. Here’s what to expect:

Pre-approval/Application: After you have your local permit, either you or your electrician will submit a request to PG&E for a “service change.” This is done through PG&E’s online portal (called Your Projects). PG&E will ask for details like the new panel size (amps), location, and whether it’s a like-for-like replacement or an upgrade. They often want a single-line diagram and the city permit number. Upon receiving your application, PG&E assigns a representative to your project. This rep may contact you or your electrician to gather details about the upgrade and any new loads (EV charger, etc.). In simple 1:1 replacements of 200A or less, this is usually straightforward.
Scheduling the disconnect/reconnect: PG&E will coordinate a date with your electrician to turn off power to your home on the day of the panel replacement. Typically, on the scheduled day, a PG&E technician comes in the morning to pull the meter or drop service so the electrician can safely work on the panel. Once the new panel is installed and the city inspector has signed off (this can sometimes be the same day if timed well, or the next day), PG&E returns to reconnect power and install a new meter if needed. Important: Your electrician will communicate with PG&E to ensure the inspection is completed before the crew comes back. In many Bay Area cities, inspectors will do same-day inspections if scheduled in advance, allowing PG&E to reconnect by late afternoon. In other cases, you might have an overnight outage if inspection timing doesn’t line up – your electrician can install a temporary feeder or make arrangements if that’s a concern.
Technical requirements: PG&E will ensure your new service meets their standards. This includes proper meter height, clearances, and in some cases PG&E might need to upgrade the service drop or transformer. They will inform you if, for example, the existing drop wire is not sufficient for 200A – in many cases they will replace that at no charge. If a larger transformer is needed for a jump to 400A, PG&E handles that (which can sometimes be a source of delay).
Possible costs: For the vast majority of residential panel upgrades, PG&E does not charge the homeowner directly (the costs are covered as part of maintaining the distribution system). You typically pay only your electrician. However, if you are relocating the service to a completely new location on the property, or requiring an underground conversion, PG&E might require you to pay for part of that construction. They would provide an estimate during the application process if so. An example from a forum: a homeowner requested a 200A underground service and PG&E quoted $14,000, likely because it involved extensive new cabling and trenching beyond standard allowances. Such cases are not the norm, but it underscores the importance of getting PG&E’s input early.
Timeline: Plan ahead, because PG&E’s process can take a while, especially if engineering work is needed. It’s not uncommon for the whole process to take 4–8 weeks from permit to final energization, largely due to coordinating schedules. If you’re simply doing a like-for-like 200A replacement with no capacity change, PG&E coordination is simpler (they treat it as a “disconnect/reconnect” for customer maintenance). If you’re upgrading capacity (say 100A to 200A), it’s a bit more involved but still usually handled within a couple of weeks to schedule. Upgrading to 400A or doing a service relocation will likely take longer because PG&E may need to do design work. A local tip: start the PG&E application as soon as you have your building permit and have decided on the scope – don’t wait, as any utility-required work happens on their timeline.

Your electrical contractor will be very familiar with this process and often handles most of the communication with PG&E. They will also ensure all PG&E technical specs (like the meter box type, service conduit size, etc.) are met. In summary, PG&E’s role is to make the upgrade possible from the grid side and to do it safely. It requires some paperwork and patience, but it’s a routine job for them. Always do not attempt to bypass PG&E by working on the meter or pull your own meter – that’s illegal and dangerous. Let the utility do their part. Once PG&E finishes and your new panel is live, you’ll have the upgraded capacity ready to use.

What are “smart panels” and should I consider one for my home?

“Smart panels” (also called intelligent or energy management panels) are a new generation of electrical panels that offer capabilities beyond the traditional breaker box. Unlike a standard panel which simply distributes power and trips breakers during faults, a smart panel actively monitors energy usage on each circuit and can even control circuits.

Features of smart panels (e.g., Span, Leviton Smart Load Center, Schneider Wiser Energy Center) include:

Circuit-level energy monitoring: Via a smartphone app, you can see how much power each branch circuit is using in real-time. This is great for understanding your home’s consumption and identifying power-hungry devices.
Remote control: You can turn circuits on or off remotely. For instance, if you left an electric water heater on, you could turn off that circuit from your phone. Some smart panels integrate with voice assistants or home automation systems.
Load management: This is especially useful if you have a limited capacity or are on backup power. Smart panels can automatically toggle or shed loads. For example, the Span panel can disconnect non-essential circuits when running on a home battery during a power outage, to extend battery life.
Integration with solar/storage: Many smart panels pair with solar inverters or battery systems to optimize usage. They can prioritize using solar power for certain circuits or manage EV charging to soak up excess solar production.
Alerts and diagnostics: The panel can alert you if a circuit trips or if it detects an anomaly. Some can even detect subtle issues like a failing breaker or an overheating circuit connection.

Whether you should consider one depends on your needs and budget:

Pros: If you plan to heavily invest in solar, battery backup, or just want ultimate control and insight into your home’s power, a smart panel is a cutting-edge addition. It essentially “future proofs” your electrical system for upcoming smart grid programs or time-of-use optimizations. In tech-savvy Bay Area communities (especially where outages or PSPS events occur), being able to manage circuits easily is a plus. Also, installing a smart panel during an upgrade is easier than retrofitting one later.
Cons: The cost is the biggest factor. As noted in the cost section, the hardware alone is around $3,000–$4,000 for something like a Span panelsolarreviews.com, compared to perhaps $300 for a regular 200A panel. Installed, you might be looking at maybe $5k-$7k total for a smart panel upgrade versus $2k-$4k for a standard upgrade. That extra cost might be better spent on a larger solar array or other improvements if you have a limited budget. Also, while becoming more common, not every electrician has experience with smart panels – though many in the Bay Area do, given the high adoption of such tech here.
Compatibility: Smart panels are generally designed to be drop-in replacements for standard panels. They are UL-listed and meet code as a service panel. Just ensure that if you get one, it’s properly rated (amperage, voltage) for your service and is approved for use (California utilities have lists of approved meter panels; Span, for instance, is approved by PG&E).

In summary, a smart panel is not a requirement – it’s an optional upgrade that can add convenience and optimize your energy usage. If you have the budget and love the idea of a “modernized” electrical system, it’s worth exploring. If your main goal is simply safe, reliable power for your home and you don’t need the fancy features, a conventional new panel is perfectly fine and will already substantially improve your electrical system’s safety and capacity.

Can my new panel support an EV charger or solar power system?

One of the most common reasons homeowners upgrade their panel is to accommodate EV chargers and solar panels – two technologies very prevalent in the Bay Area.

EV Chargers: A Level 2 EV charging station typically draws 30–50 amps on a 240V circuit (for example, a 40A charger on a 50A breaker). If you have only a 100A main service, adding such a load can be problematic – you might overload the main if the house is using other appliances concurrently. Generally, a 200A panel is recommended if you plan to charge EVs at home, especially if you have more than one electric car. With 200A service, there’s usually enough capacity to add a 40A or 50A dedicated circuit for an EV charger while still running your household loads. California’s building codes also encourage EV readiness: new construction homes are required by CALGreen standards to be EV charger capable, meaning they must have conduit and panel capacity for a future EV circuit. If you’re upgrading your panel, it’s wise to have your electrician also prepare for EV charging – e.g., install a breaker and circuit to the garage or at least leave space for it. Many modern 200A panels can handle one or two EV chargers, but if you anticipate multiple high-power chargers (for example, two Teslas charging at 48A each simultaneously every night), then even 200A might be tight – in such cases, some homeowners consider a 400A service or a load management system. However, for a typical single EV, a 200A panel is ample. Your electrician can do a load calculation to verify this per NEC Article 220 requirements.
Solar PV Systems: Solar panels themselves do not consume power, but they backfeed power into your panel. The limitation is a code rule (NEC 120% rule) that typically says the solar breaker plus the main breaker cannot exceed 120% of the busbar rating of the panel. In practical terms, if you have a 200A panel with a 200A bus, the largest solar breaker often allowed is 40A (because 200A + 40A = 240A, which is 120% of 200A). If the panel has a 225A bus with a 200A main (a common configuration for “solar-ready” panels), you could install up to a 60A solar breaker (since 200 + 60 = 260, which is ~116% of 225A bus rating, within allowed limits). In plain English: a standard 200A main panel can typically accept around a 7.6 kW solar system (40A breaker) on a 200A bus, or more if the bus is higher rated. Many residential solar installs are in the 4 kW to 10 kW range, so often a 200A panel works. Problems arise if you have an older 100A panel – then the allowable solar might be too limited (e.g., only a 20A solar breaker on a 100A bus, roughly a 3 kW system). Therefore, if you plan to get solar and you currently have a smaller panel, upgrading to 200A is highly advisable. In fact, solar installers will often make a panel upgrade a contingency if the existing service is inadequate for the PV system you want. Upgrading the panel during a solar installation is common, and in some cases you can roll the cost into your solar financing or take advantage of incentives. Note that Title 24’s requirement for reserved space for solar in new panels ensures that even if you don’t have solar now, your new panel will be ready for it.
Battery Storage: If you are considering a home battery (like a Tesla Powerwall or Enphase batteries), panel upgrades might come into play as well. Many battery systems tie into the main panel or subpanel. A larger service can support charging the battery and supplying backup loads more easily. Also, if doing a battery that can supply whole-home backup, sometimes a critical loads subpanel is installed – you might upgrade the main panel and create a subpanel for backed-up circuits. Just keep in mind these future technologies when sizing your main panel upgrade.

Bottom line: A 200A panel is generally suitable for the addition of one EV charger and a sizable solar array for an average home. It’s effectively the new “standard” in California. If you foresee multiple high-power EVs and a large solar/battery system, discuss with your electrician whether a service larger than 200A is needed. Often, creative solutions like load management devices can avoid the jump to 400A, but each situation is unique. California’s push toward electric vehicles (with state goals for EV adoption) and solar means upgrading your electrical infrastructure is a smart move. By upgrading now, you ensure your home is compatible with EV charging stations and solar PV systems, supporting the state’s clean energy initiatives and your household’s needs.

How much does it cost to install a subpanel?

Installing a subpanel is a common project related to, but separate from, the main panel. A subpanel is essentially a smaller breaker box that feeds off your main panel, used to distribute power to a particular area (like a garage, an addition, or a second story) or to add circuit capacity when your main panel is full.

Costs for subpanel installations are much lower than a full main service upgrade, because you’re not interfacing with the utility or replacing the service entrance. The price mostly depends on the amperage of the subpanel and the complexity of running the feeder cable to it. Typical costs for a subpanel in the Bay Area might range roughly from $500 on the low end up to $1,500 or $2,000 for a larger subpanel with a longer run. Nationally, data shows average subpanel installation costs around $1,200, with a usual range of $400 to $1,750. This aligns with what local electricians charge for, say, a 60-amp or 100-amp subpanel a short distance from the main.

Factors that influence subpanel cost:

Amperage of subpanel: A small 60A subpanel for a few circuits (perhaps for a shed or small addition) will cost less than a 125A or 150A subpanel for a large garage or second unit. Higher amp panels and thicker wiring increase material costs. According to one source, a 100A subpanel might cost $500–$1,000, whereas a 150A could be $600–$1,750 installed.
Distance from main panel: The farther the location, the more wire and conduit is needed, and the more labor to route it (especially if walls or trenches are involved). A subpanel right next to the main (say for a solar inverter hookup) is very quick, but one in a detached garage 50 feet away might involve running conduit through attics or underground.
Labor complexity: If installing the subpanel requires drywall cuts, attic crawls, or digging, costs go up. If the subpanel is to be flush-mounted inside a finished wall, there’s carpentry and patching to consider versus a surface-mounted panel in an unfinished garage which is simpler.

Subpanels usually require a permit as well, and the work must be to code (including an isolated neutral bar in subpanel, proper feeder breaker in the main, etc.). Your electrician will size the subpanel feeder breaker based on the load needs of that area.

One common scenario in the Bay Area: adding a subpanel for an ADU (Accessory Dwelling Unit) or a home addition. Instead of upgrading the whole service to 400A, sometimes a 200A main feeds a 100A subpanel in the ADU. This is typically sufficient and more cost-effective. Just be sure your main panel can handle the extra load; if not, an upgrade of the main might still be needed in conjunction.

In summary, subpanels are a relatively affordable way to extend your electrical system. Think on the order of hundreds, not tens of thousands, of dollars. Always have a licensed electrician do the install, as improper subpanel wiring (especially neutral/ground bonding issues) can be dangerous.

Will I need to rewire my whole house when I upgrade the panel?

Not necessarily. Upgrading the main panel and rewiring the house are two distinct (though sometimes related) projects. A panel upgrade by itself replaces the service equipment and maybe the connection to the utility, but it does not inherently include replacing the branch circuit wiring in your walls. If your home’s wiring is in good condition (e.g., modern NM cable or conduit wiring that’s properly sized and insulated), you can change the panel without rewiring all the circuits – the electrician will simply reconnect the existing circuit cables to new breakers in the new panel.

However, there are situations where a panel upgrade goes hand-in-hand with a full or partial rewire:

If your home has very old wiring (such as knob-and-tube wiring from the early 1900s or cloth-insulated wiring from mid-century), upgrading the panel might not solve all your electrical issues. Those old wires may be brittle, ungrounded, or underrated for today’s needs. Many homeowners, upon evaluation, choose to do a complete house rewire for safety and to meet code. In fact, some cities or insurance companies may require upgrading such wiring at some point. While not strictly mandated just because you changed the panel, it’s strongly recommended for old installations.
If the existing circuits lack proper grounding, an upgrade could be a time to at least run new grounding conductors or GFCI-protect those circuits. Modern panel upgrades often include adding grounding if it’s missing (driven rods, bonding, etc.), but that’s different from pulling new cables through the house.
If you are renovating rooms (opening walls, etc.), it’s usually cost-effective to rewire those areas at the same time. For example, during a kitchen remodel, you’ll rewire to add the required circuits, and you might also upgrade the panel then to handle the new load.

Cost of rewiring: Rewiring an entire house is a much bigger expense than a panel upgrade. It involves replacing the electrical cables, outlets, switches, possibly lighting – essentially the whole distribution system. The cost depends on house size and difficulty. For an average 1,500 sq. ft. home, a full rewire can range roughly $15,000 to $30,000 in California. That’s roughly $10–$20 per square foot of house area as a rule of thumb. Smaller homes might be under $10k, and large or complex homes (two-story, finished walls, etc.) can go well above $30k. By comparison, a panel upgrade as we’ve discussed might be $3k–$6k. So rewiring is a separate major project.

The good news is you typically do not need to rewire when just upgrading the panel if the existing wiring is safe and was installed to a past code. The inspector won’t make you tear open all walls just because you got a new panel. They will, however, require that the circuits in the new panel have the appropriate breakers (AFCI/GFCI), which can at least bring some level of modern protection to old wires. For example, if you have older two-wire circuits with no ground, the electrician can put them on GFCI breakers for safety since there’s no ground – this is an accepted retrofit method.

That said, think of a panel upgrade as a good opportunity to assess your whole electrical system. If you have the budget and the wiring is very old, doing both the panel and a rewire together can save hassle in the long run. Also, some panel upgrade projects involve a partial rewire right at the panel – like replacing or extending the feeder wires, installing new grounding, and perhaps replacing a few feet of each branch circuit’s cable if the old insulation is not compatible with the new breakers or too short to reach. These are usually minor compared to a full rewire.

Bottom line: You do not automatically have to rewire the house. It’s possible to just upgrade the panel and leave existing circuits intact (adding new ones as needed for new appliances). Many Bay Area homeowners have upgraded from old 100A panels to new 200A panels while still using their home’s existing wiring without issue – aside from the noted safety enhancements like AFCI breakers. If your home’s wiring is in poor shape or you have aluminum branch circuits (found in some 1960s-70s homes), discuss with your electrician whether additional steps are prudent. They might suggest updating those circuits or using specialized connectors for aluminum. Each house is different, so get a professional assessment. But purely from a requirement standpoint, a panel upgrade alone does not mandate rewiring the entire house.

Are there special local code requirements or regulations in the Bay Area I should know about?

Bay Area jurisdictions all follow the California Electrical Code and Building Code, but there are a few local twists and commonly enforced rules to be aware of:

Title 24 and CALGreen: We’ve touched on Title 24 energy requirements – notably the solar-ready and EV-ready provisions for new construction. While these don’t force panel upgrades in existing homes, they set the tone that new panels should be large enough for future solar and EV. Some cities may ask, during permit, if the upgrade is “solar ready.” It’s generally a given if you install a 200A panel with a 225A bus and leave space for a solar breaker.
Municipal Utilities: A few Bay Area cities (Santa Clara, Palo Alto, Alameda) have their own electric utilities instead of PG&E. In those areas, the process might differ slightly (for example, Palo Alto utilities has its own rules for service upgrades). If you live in one of these cities, check their utility guidelines. However, for most (PG&E areas), the process we described holds.
Working Clearances & Location: California code (based on NEC) requires that the panel has a clear working space of 30 inches width and 6.5 feet height in front of it, and cannot be located in closets or bathrooms. When upgrading, if your current panel is in an inconvenient or non-compliant location, the inspector might require you to relocate it. In older houses, panels were sometimes in small closets or tight spaces – today that wouldn’t pass. Be prepared in case relocation is needed for safety.
Meter Height: PG&E and code dictate the meter height must be between certain values (typically 48 to 66 inches above ground to the center of the meter glass in many places). If your existing setup is outside that range, the new installation must correct it. This is a minor construction consideration but sometimes can be an issue if, say, an old meter was very low on the wall.
AIC letter and panel rating: As mentioned earlier, some Bay Area cities (Oakland, for example) will ask for a PG&E fault current letter for service upgradesoaklandca.gov. This is because in areas close to distribution substations, the available fault current can be very high. Standard residential breakers are rated for 10,000 AIC (amps interrupting). If the available fault current exceeds that, you need equipment rated 22k or 42k AIC. It’s a technical detail your electrician will handle by selecting appropriate panel and breakers. Just know that the inspector isn’t picking on you if they ask for this – it’s about ensuring the new panel can safely clear a short-circuit without catastrophic failure.
Seismic considerations: California is earthquake country, so securing the electrical panel is important. Panels should be firmly attached to the structure – if mounted on drywall, there must be proper support (like backing or structural screws). In new construction, the panel is often on plywood for shear wall purposes. For your upgrade, just be sure the mounting is solid. Also, conduit and pipe should be strapped properly. While not a unique “Bay Area code,” the seismic aspect is something local inspectors have an eye on.
Permit follow-through: Different cities have different processes. Some allow the electrician to self-certify certain minor work, but panel changes always require inspection. Make sure you or your contractor calls for inspection and that it passes before PG&E is called to reconnect. In some places, PG&E will require seeing the signed permit tag or an inspector’s release form. Coordination between city and PG&E is crucial – your electrician usually manages this by scheduling the inspector in the morning and PG&E in the afternoon of the same day for example.
Bay Area costal climate considerations: If you live in a coastal area (SF, Oakland hills, Pacifica, etc.), corrosion can be an issue. It’s wise to get NEMA 3R outdoor-rated, rust-resistant enclosures for any exterior panel. California code also requires rain-tight (weatherproof) panels for outdoors, so that will be part of the spec.

California’s state codes (NEC-based and Title 24) govern most requirements, and local authorities enforce them strictly. The Bay Area doesn’t necessarily have extra electrical rules beyond state code, but the process might include a few additional steps like utility coordination or fault current checks. Always hire an electrician familiar with Bay Area jurisdictions – they will know the local permit offices, PG&E processes, and any utility-specific rules. Following all these codes and requirements ensures your new panel is safe, legal, and built to last under California conditions.

Ready to Upgrade Your Panel?

Whether you’re powering a new EV charger, preparing for solar, or simply replacing an outdated panel, upgrading your electrical service is a smart investment in your home’s safety, performance, and future. At Alpha Omega Electric, we’ve helped Bay Area homeowners upgrade everything from 100A to 400A panels, install subpanels for additions and ADUs, and ensure new construction projects meet California’s strict Title 24 and PG&E requirements. Our team handles everything—from permitting and PG&E coordination to final inspection—so your upgrade is seamless and code-compliant.

Have questions or need expert advice? Contact us today for a personalized quote and peace of mind from a licensed electrician who understands Bay Area homes inside and out